Wrinkles - one of the first and most obvious signs of aging. Their formation is caused by biochemical, histological and physiological age-related changes in the skin that are aggravated by negative environmental impacts. In addition, the formation of the face characteristic folds, lines and grooves contributes to a permanent force of gravity, displacement and stretching of the skin while reducing the mimic muscles.
Today we are going to talk about cosmetic products that can relax facial muscles.
One of the most famous and distinguished neuromuscular relaxant today is botulinum A toxin, classified as injected substance. Botulinum toxin temporarily paralyses the muscle and therefore causes its persistent neuromuscular relaxation. It works generally up to six months upon single injection. Its dose is highly insignificant, thus there is no overall negative effect on the body. Sometimes the procedure has an undesirable effect of completely amimic “doll” face. Furthermore, after the injection of botulinum toxin the body begins to produce antibodies that gradually attack the toxin. The amount of antibodies increases with each injection. That means the more frequent the injection, the less time interval between the procedures needed. Thereby after 5-6 years of regular neuromuscular relaxant use, the duration of the effect may become only several weeks. Another unpleasant side effect that sometimes arises with this procedure is ptosis. Although the effect of this substance is temporary, it is rather unpleasant to walk with partly closed eyelid or lowered angle of mouth with dripping saliva for several months.
Currently there is a worthy alternative to the injection of neuromuscular relaxants. That is creams, serums, gels, patches with components that slow down neuromuscular transmission without blocking it. These tools cause neuromuscular relaxation without muscular paralysis. They don’t contain botulinum toxin, as it is unstable and loses its activity upon contact with air, they are harmless and do not cause acquired tolerance or complications. Neuromuscular relaxation effect is accumulative and begins after 1-1.5 months of regular use or intensive course of professional procedures. The result is directly dependant on the duration and regularity of using cosmetic products containing neuromuscular relaxants.
A more widely spread component of cosmetics that has a similar effect to botulinum toxin is Hexapeptide (acetyl hexapeptide ?), which was discovered, researched and patented by Spanish company Lipotec in 2003. It is known as “Argireline” in the cosmetics market. Cosmetics with argireline are produced by many manufacturers. Products with Hexapeptide already appear in professional cosmetic market. A few that are worth noting are Botu-Like (manufactured by Ericson Laboratoire, France) and New BTX (Sphere Tech, USA).
Another peptide has a similar action, the patent is owned by Natura Bisse, well-known Spanish professional cosmetic manufacturer. Its name is Octamioxyl®.
Speaking of cosmetic products relaxing facial muscles, we shouldn’t forget the ones containing kava-kava extract. The neuromuscular relaxation effect is achieved by Kavalactones (alfa-pyrones) contained in the extract. Kavalactones are not peptides and act in a different way than the abovementioned hexa- and octapeptide. Alfa-pyrone’s muscular relaxant activity is a result of direct affect on muscle contractions, not blockage of transmission from nerve to the muscle.
Terms of use
Before using it is advisable to make a light cleansing treatment in a salon or at home. Use regularly, two times daily until the result is achieved (1-1.5 months), then proceed to sustaining use (1-2-3 times a week). If stopped using afterwards the effect lasts for 4-6 months. Points of application are the same as for Botox – upper part of face: parallel and crossing lines on forehead, frown lines, wrinkles near outer corners of the eyes (“crow’s feet”).
Cosmetics cannot be used together with fruit acids, as they destroy the localized muscular relaxants. These products cannot be used during pregnancy and breast-feeding. Not to be used constantly without break periods, as they can cause normal microcirculation disruption and therefore disrupt facial tissue nutrition.
The best result is achieved in the age group of 30-45. After 55 there is no way to completely remove mimic lines. Neuromuscular relaxants have no effect on wrinkles that appear due to dehydration or photopathy as well as bags under eyes.
It is your choice which product is best for you. There is a big supply in the market. Practically all professional cosmetics manufacturers offer such products.
Some examples:
Botu-Vip (Ericson Laboratoire, France)
Botofit (Kleraderm, Italy)
Botosess system (Mediderma, Spain)
Botorelax (Academie, France)
Swiss Cell Tox (Mila d Opiz, Swiss)
BTX (Sphere Tech, USA)
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