Working with glycolic peels
When an aesthetician decides on what peels to work with, it’s best to start with surface glycolic peels. Their effects on skin are very well researched, they are highly effective, safe and simple to use.
Knowing the composition
Today, surface glycolic peel is one of the most common treatments in cosmetology for prevention and correction of age-related skin changes. It is the safest, most easily endurable and effective out of all types of peels. If you rate the treatments by such features as risk of complications, injury, discomfort, length of rehabilitation on one hand, and final cosmetic results on the other, in most cases your preference should definitely be given to surface chemical peel. These peels mostly use Alpha Hydroxy Acids. The main component of any glycolic peel is glycolic acid.
Glycolic acid is an AHA that comes from cane sugar. It is the smallest molecule of fruit acid that is able to penetrate the skin. Glycolic Acid is the most effective of all AHAs in regulating and boosting the cellular syntheses of the skin, and is therefore the most used by dermatologists. Glycolic acid encourages exfoliation of the skin, eliminates dead cells, homogenizes the cellular population and boosts the synthesis of collagen and elastin. The skin becomes smoother and the complexion clearer and brighter.
Power of Hydrogen (pH)
The term pH (power of hydrogen) refers how acidic or alkaline a substance is. ThepHscalerangesfrom 1-14. A pH of 7.0 is considered neutral (water is neutral) and anything over a pH of 7.0 is alkaline.
In cosmetics, AHAs are used in different concentrations depending on the desired effect: The greater the concentration, the more effective they are.
At low concentrations (5-10%, pH 2,5-4,5): AHAs enable the acid mantle of the skin to be maintained or re-established, in other words they reinforce the natural defense processes and can be used for home care.
At medium concentrations (20-30-%, pH 3-4): AHAs act as gentle exfoliant. At medium concentrations, we can observe a clear action on the condition of the skin's surface and the correction of minor imperfections. They also exert a real moisturizing action.
At stronger concentrations (50-70%, pH0,6-2,5): AHAs have an effective action on the signs of cutaneous ageing: deep wrinkles and poor skin quality. They make it possible to correct prominent surface imperfections: pigmentation marks, scars and hyperkeratinization.
What to expect after use
Improvements from AHA peels may be very subtle at first. You may detect a healthier glow to your skin. With continued treatments, you will notice a general improvement in the texture of your skin.
· Improved skin hydration
· Improved barrier function of the skin
· Reduces the appearance of fine lines wrinkles
· Even skin tone and lightens pigmentation
· Stimulates collagen production
What you need to consider
This is a rather safe treatment that rarely causes allergic reactions. However, if it is done by inexperienced specialist, there might be side effects. E.g. kept for too long or poorly neutralized peel can cause skin hypersensitivity and irritation.
Sometimes there may be hyper pigmentation after glycolic face peel. Such risk is present in people with swarthy skin (phototype IV) and people with hormonal misbalance. These effects are, however, easily recovered during post-peel care.
A chemical peel may not be done if your client has:
· Recently used isotretinoin (such as Accutane, a drug used to treat acne).
· Had recent facial surgery or facial radiation therapy. This can make re-growth of the skin more difficult.
· An active herpes infection affecting the area to be treated.
· An impaired immune system. This can delay healing and increase the risk of infection and skin color changes after the peel.
· Known allergies to certain medicines.
The basic rules of the Glycolic Peel Procedure
All individuals must sign a consent form prior to undergoing glycolic peels. No jewellery should be worn around the neck/ears on day of peel. The skin is cleansed with an appropriate cleansing solution. The chemical is then applied to the skin with a small brush, gauze, or cotton-tipped applicators. The chemical is left on the skin for several minutes, depending on the type of chemical used. Neutralize the acid with a water rinse until client has no signs of discomfort and follow with moisturizing and sunscreen. Initially after application the client may experience an itching sensation. Advise your client not to expose herself to the sun during and after application of products containing AHAs and recommend to use total sun block during the treatment.
Post-Peel Instructions
· Avoid exercise for at least a few hours after each procedure.
· Avoid direct sun exposure. A sunscreen of SPF 15 or higher should be used daily throughout the Glycolic Acid treatment program.
· Wait one day after each procedure before resuming the glycolic acid based home care products. Patients experiencing irritation should not resume use of glycolic acid home care products until skin has normalized.
· Do not use Retin-A or any similar Vitamin A compound for at least 48 hours after the procedure, unless directed.
· Immediately after the peel, it is not uncommon for the patient to experience temporary skin dehydration ranging from mild dryness to slight crusting. In addition, some temporary discoloration may occur.
· Facial hair should not be waxed for at least 48 hours after treatment.
